Monday, November 3, 2008

Godfrey of Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe


A little bit more about Zimbabwe:

We spent a week in that country... after much debate, and querying other travelers, we decided not only was it safe, but it would be a shame to miss it. We are so close! So we endured the obscure bureaucracy of the border crossing, and in we went.

Oh my. Zimbabwe is a sad place. The people are bright and friendly, but the country is completely stalled out. Only US dollars or South African Rand are used, there are few jobs, there's hardly any food (people cross the border, bring back food and sell it on the black market for big bucks) and buying fuel is a joke. But we knew that, so we had plenty of food, water and fuel.

6 days we spent, traveling through Hwange National Park. 3 cars we saw. It once was a grand place to tour, but slowly it decays... almost ghostlike.

Each camp has an attendant, and at one camp the attendant literally RAN to meet us - he hadn't seen a car in 5 days. His clothing was faded and worn, he was thin. His second request, after asking us to stay in his camp, was for reading material. We offered a recent newspaper, and promised to return the next night. When we arrived the following day, this young man had dressed up for us in his best uniform, and introduced himself as Godfrey. We spent 2 1/2 days with him, sharing our food (he had only corn meal and dried meat....) and our reading material and good conversation. He was brilliant, well educated, very curious. His experience with the wildlife of Africa was incomparable. Much we learned in those 2 days!

I offered to make him a beanie, for the cold season, and he eagerly accepted. I suppose you might guess the rest of the story. A bright young man, hungry to learn anything new.... I taught him how to knit! He was fascinated and determined... and incredibly clever. I complimented him on being such a bright student, and he said, 'Then we are well met, an eager student and a wonderful teacher.' In 24 hours he had learned how to knit and had finished one beanie and was 1/2 way done with the next. I left him most of my yarn, sets of needles, anything I could spare. (and all of our sugar!) I intend to send him care packages as often as possible. It's a lonely life for a 25 year old man. But what else is there to do in Zimbabwe? He spends his days making sure the pumps are running so the animals have water, watching the elephants and lions and hyena, and keeping an eye out for poachers. Godfrey was indeed a friend well met.


Sunday, November 2, 2008

What will you do, Zimbabwe?


We have just returned from six days in Zimbabwe.  Truly, it is a "Failed State".

But.  The people we met have not failed.  Amidst currency collapse and violent turmoil, they were kind to us, honorable, and willing to work - hard.

Hwange National Park was once a gem of the African national parks.  We saw rangers ... thin, wary and hard from malnutrition ... tending the camps or on bush patrol with ancient AK-47's to protect the elephants and rhinos from poachers. Imagine this ... these rangers and attendants tried their hardest to make us feel comfortable .... and welcome in our visit.  Tragic.  Ironic.  Absurd.  It nearly overwhelmed us. We bear witness to the crime of poverty, the nobility of spirit in Zimbabwe.

We shall not forget it.

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Dreaming


This dream began without any introduction, as dreams are wont to do. I was just merged into a series of ongoing events......

I was supposed to do something for Uncle Lou, and had not been able to find him. Later, he found me and asked 'Where were you? I needed you!' I explained, and told him I would definitely be there for him the next time. So - the dream shifted to a situation where I was standing outside some kind of venue - maybe a church, or a meeting hall, or perhaps an airport. I stood there, watching, as all of the adult men I've known walked out of this place (much as we stand and watch people walk off an airplane at the airport, looking for our family or friends) the fathers of my childhood friends were there - Bruce Buell, Ken Bueche, some of my teachers, Uncle Johnny and Uncle Henry, Don Fox, Orrin Curtis... and many more. Then Dad was there, and he walked up to me with a big smile and said 'Hi Sport!' and he hugged me. We walked along, holding hands. I could FEEL his hand in mine. So warm, so big. Then I told him I had to find Uncle Lou, because he needed me to take care of him. And Dad said 'I know you do, but I've sure enjoyed spending this time with you.' And as he walked away I felt his hand slip out of mine, and I knew I would never see him again. But it was okay - we'd had that last moment together, and I knew he loved me. Then Uncle Lou walked up with a big smile and said 'I knew you would be here!' And I said of course, I wouldn't miss him a second time. And that was that.


I had this dream more than 10 days ago, and I still vividly remember it, and the emotional intensity of it remains.

Friday, October 3, 2008

Cape Cod ~ Rome ~ Cairo ~ Jo'berg

This, in an email from Perry:

I hope this communique finds you all happy and healthy, wealthy and wise.

We've arrived in South Africa after seven delightful days among the ruins of Roma and Cairo. Beth and I toured the Forum, Colisseum, Palatine Hills and the Spanish Steps of Roma before flying to Egypt. Both Beth and I have been fascinated with the mystique of ancient Egypt since watching the Ten Commandments as children ... and four lovely nights at the Mena House Palace set beside the Great Pyramids of Giza did nothing to disappoint our romantic souls. :)

Our fully outfitted Land Rover was delivered from Cape Town this morning. Tomorrow, Beth's Aunt Paula and Uncle Bruce fly in from Zambia where they've been voluntering their time, efforts and love for the past two weeks to those desperately in need. We'll guide them around Kruger National Park for 12 days or so before heading north to Botswana and the Okavango Delta including Chobe National Park ..... the greatest wildlife refuge on the planet.

Wilderness

There is a wolf in me .... fangs for tearing gashes .... I keep the wolf because the wilderness gave it to me and the wilderness will not let it go.

There is a fox in me .... I nose in the dark night and take sleepers and eat them and hide the feathers .... I circle and loop and double-cross.

There is a hog in me .... a machinery for eating and grunting, for sleeping satisfied in the sun - I got this too from the wilderness and the wilderness will not let it go.

There is a fish in me .... I know I came from salt-blue watergates .... I know I scurried with shoals of herring before the water went down .... before Noah .... before the first chapter of Genesis.

There is a baboon in me .... hairy under the armpits .... here are the hawk-eyed hankering men .... here are the blonde and blue-eyed women .... here they hide curled up sleeping ready to snarl and kill .... ready to sing and give milk .... waiting - I keep the baboon because the wilderness says so.

There is an eagle and a mocking bird in me .... and the eagle flies among the Rocky Mountains of my dreams .... and fights among the sierra crags of what I want .... and the mockingbird warbles in the underbrush of my Chattanoogas of hope, gushes over the blue Ozark Hills of my wishes - And I got the eagle and the mocking bird from the wilderness.

Oh, I got a zoo, I got a menagerie inside my ribs, under my bony skull, under my red-valved heart - and I got something else: it is a man-child heart, a woman-child heart: it is a father and a mother and a lover: it came from God knows where; it is going to God knows where - For I am the keeper of the zoo: I say yes and no: I sing and kill and work: I am a pal of the world: I came from the wilderness.

~ Carl Sandburg ~